海の日。連休を使ってわざわざ愛知県の伊良湖までサーフィンに。22時出発で夜通し東名走って朝4時着。5時に全日本で入水。
コンディションは風もなくフェイスもキレイ。肝心のサイズも胸～肩くらい。5時から10時くらいまで入ってもうクタクタ。。。。
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